What can you do at a Fiber Fiesta??
Learn something, do something, pet someone, find something, and have lots and lots of fun!
Knitting for The Troops Update!
I did it! I've completed the original scarf plus 2 neck gators! In the process I learned to use circular needles and how to do the rib stitch. The scarf is spectacular and I wish I could take the credit for it... but in truth, the credit goes to the lovely Shepherd's Wool yarn that I used. This color is called Storm.
The Neck Gator is made from Fisherman's Wool Yarn by Lion.
The Neck Gator is made from Fisherman's Wool Yarn by Lion.
Teresa is Knitting for the Troops
My grandma taught me to crochet when I was just a wee thing.... but knitting, I learnt from a book and I am still in the early stages of learning. I have a motivation though that seems to surpass my reluctance and fear and makes me grasp needles in hand and go forth with confidence. His name is Jeremiah and he is serving our country in Afghanistan.
Our church knitting group, The Shiloh Knit Wits, is knitting for the troops. I gathered patterns and discounted yarn for the occasion. But actually knitting something is a bit trickier. So I started with a simple scarf. Uncle Sam wants it to be 12" x 42" in any stitch other than stockinette. So here is my garter stitch scarf.
Our church knitting group, The Shiloh Knit Wits, is knitting for the troops. I gathered patterns and discounted yarn for the occasion. But actually knitting something is a bit trickier. So I started with a simple scarf. Uncle Sam wants it to be 12" x 42" in any stitch other than stockinette. So here is my garter stitch scarf.
I just love the way this Shepherd's Wool yarn is knitting up. It is so soft and knits so great. This scarf is made in 'Storm'. There are several Shepherd's Wool colors that are approved by the military for the troops. If you want to knit for the troops, just remember that the wool must be 100% animal wool. I like the Shepherd's Wool because it is made in Michigan and is the softest wool yarn I've ever experienced.
Yarn 2 Spin is proud to offer Shepherd's Wool yarn at a discounted price if you are knitting for the troops. Just let me know.
Teresa's Tips - Why Does Wool Felt?
I know you've done it. If not, some man in your household has done it for you. That special sweater that is supposed to be dryed flat.... now fits a toddler. So how and why does wool shrink when dryed?
First of all, the wool did not shrink. It has however changed shape and may or maynot ever be the same again.
Secondly, many people think it is the heat of the dryer that caused the damage. This is not true. When wool is dyed it is brought to near boiling temperatures, yet does not 'shrink' or felt at all.
So what does happen and why?
Take a look at these wool fibers up close. See the scales on them?
When wool is wet and agitated, these scales begin to connect together and interlock. The more they are agitated, the more tangled and locked they become until they are densely felted. Your sweater has an even great tendency to felt because heat and detergent cause the scales to open more readily. Plus the knit of the sweater gives the wool a 'head start' on the tangling process.
But what about needle felting? The wool is dry for that and yet it still felts.
With needle felting, the effect is the same, but the cause is different. A specially designed felting needle is used. At the tip of the needle are very tiny barbs, or scales. These barbs lift the edge of the wool scales, allowing them to interlock and the felting action to take place.
Can felting be 'un felted'.
I've never tried to unfelt something that is firmly felted, but since what has happened is a tangling and interlocking of the wool, some gentle tugging and maybe even a mist of fabric softner could help your unintentionally felted object. But a fully felted object is pretty permanantly changed.
Oh! And be careful with those needles! They are sharp!
First of all, the wool did not shrink. It has however changed shape and may or maynot ever be the same again.
Secondly, many people think it is the heat of the dryer that caused the damage. This is not true. When wool is dyed it is brought to near boiling temperatures, yet does not 'shrink' or felt at all.
Take a look at these wool fibers up close. See the scales on them?
When wool is wet and agitated, these scales begin to connect together and interlock. The more they are agitated, the more tangled and locked they become until they are densely felted. Your sweater has an even great tendency to felt because heat and detergent cause the scales to open more readily. Plus the knit of the sweater gives the wool a 'head start' on the tangling process.
But what about needle felting? The wool is dry for that and yet it still felts.
Can felting be 'un felted'.
I've never tried to unfelt something that is firmly felted, but since what has happened is a tangling and interlocking of the wool, some gentle tugging and maybe even a mist of fabric softner could help your unintentionally felted object. But a fully felted object is pretty permanantly changed.
Oh! And be careful with those needles! They are sharp!
Teresa's Tips - What's in a Twist
Back in the day I thought that yarn was yarn. All you had to do was choose your favorite color of Red Heart, right? Well, the world of yarn has opened up for me and I am now an official 'yarn snob'.
So today I am thinking about twist. Z twist and S twist specifically.
Most yarn you find is a S twist yarn. That means that the singles are spun clockwise and then plyed counter-clockwise. See how the slant of the yarn is in the same direction as the S. This is the yarn preferred by most American style knitters. But for crocheters and European style knitters, it is less than ideal.
If you crochet or knit European and notice that your singles tend to seperate and untwist, that is because the yarn you are using is made for western knitting.
Now that you know the problem, what can you do about it.
Many crocheters that I know solved the problem by learning to spin their own yarn and making it with a Z twist. For a Z twist yarn, spin the singles counter-clockwise and ply clockwise.
So today I am thinking about twist. Z twist and S twist specifically.
If you crochet or knit European and notice that your singles tend to seperate and untwist, that is because the yarn you are using is made for western knitting.
Now that you know the problem, what can you do about it.
Many crocheters that I know solved the problem by learning to spin their own yarn and making it with a Z twist. For a Z twist yarn, spin the singles counter-clockwise and ply clockwise.
Announcing a New Kromski Wheel! - The FANTASIA!
Kromski is know for craftsmanship and making beautiful wheels that are functional and a true work of art. Now we have something to really get spinning about!The Fantasia!
Thoroughly modern in every aspect, yet obviously Kromski in art and design.
What is not obvious is a new style single drive flyer design. The whorl is “changeable” for different speeds; to change bobbins, the front of the flyer simply pulls off - no drive band to deal with. Very fast bobbin change. And both the flyer and the wheel spin on sealed ball bearings for a truly smooth feel.
The Fantasia is made of European alder and birch and available in several wood and color combinations. See below for details.
Give a Fantasia for Christmas! I'll send you a full color printout all about the Fantasia that you can put under the tree. Then Ship your Fantasia for FREE when available early in 2010. I’m taking orders now, so call or email. Yarn2spin@yahoo.com
Order yours before December 31, 2009 and receive 1 full pound of merino roving in your choice of color! Yes, I did say Merino!!
FREE SHIPPING - Gift Announcement - AND 1 POUND of MERINO Roving!
Additional specifications:
- • wheel diameter - 18"; double treadle
• orifice height - 28"; size - 3/8"
• 3 bobbins; will fit all other Kromski wheels
• single drive with Scotch tension with interchangeable whorls
• also includes threading hook, attached Lazy Kate and needlenose bottle of spinning wheel oil; uses an elastic drive band
• Ratios: 5 and 8 to 1. Additional whorls - 10 and 14:1, 18 and 20:1; whorls exchange very easily
• ball bearings on wheel axle and flyer
• wheel part is MDF or veneer MDF; available finished or unfinished
• weight - 13.5 lbs.
It is available in the following configurations:
- • unfinished wood and MDF wheel; ready for you to finish as you like
• finished wood and veneer MDF wheel; walnut with clear wheel accent or clear with walnut wheel accent
Retail Prices
Fantasia, unfinished wood and MDF wheel $363
Fantasia, finished - clear wood and veneer with walnut accent on wheel; or walnut wood and veneer with clear accent on wheel; $478
Teresa's Tips - Drafting Basics
One of the biggest frustrations of new spinners is learning to draft and the art of making yarn is in the draft. Yarn is made by drafting and twisting. It doesn't matter what device you choose to accomplish this task. Spindle or wheel - your yarn is made what it is by how you draft and how you twist.
First - Get familiar with your fiber. Many spinners pick up their roving and just start spinning and then wonder why they either can't draft it out or why they keep breaking. Take a minute and examine your roving. Pull out a little pinch of fiber. How long are the fibers??
The length of your fibers, or staple length, will tell you a lot about how this fiber will draft. If you have a 3 inch staple length and you hold your fingers 2 inches apart, you won't be able to draft your fibers because you are holding both ends of each fiber. So if you can't 'pull' the fibers apart lengthwise, try moving your hands further apart.
If you keep breaking the roving or if your staple length is short, you need keep your hands closer together and not draft so far before backing up and drafting the next section. If your fibers are only 2 inches long, you can't pull them 3 inches at a time. You may need to "inchworm" your way through the roving.
This is very very basic drafting info. Not a comprehensive tutorial. There are a lot of drafting techniques. My goal here is to remind you to get aquainted with your fiber and draft intentionally, not just try to pull out what you can.
If you have trouble drafting, try pre-drafting your roving. Pre-drafting is where you draft your fibers before you go to your wheel or spindle.
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